Friday, May
28, 2004
Grand Canyon - North Rim to Lake Powell
Well, we got lucky again - thanks to each of you who said your prayers
that we would get permits and get to hike down into the canyon again.
We got our first choice, which was the slow and easy route. First
night in Cottonwood Campground, second night in Bright Angel Campground,
and third night in Cottonwood again heading back out of the canyon.
This schedule kept our hiking to 7 miles per day. Which, with the
backpacks, is plenty for us. We met several other hikers who were
hiking 14 miles down, camping one night, then hiking 14 miles back
out. They were either very gungho or very foolish - depending on
their physical shape and preparation. Either way, I can't imagine
that they came out of the canyon with the same peace, contentment,
and fun that we had. When we weren't hiking we were reading, playing
cards, or napping. But we would also walk around our campground,
and put our feet in the 55 degree creek to cool off. One side-trip
that we did (twice)was from Cottonwood Campground to Ribbon Falls,
which was about 1 1/2 miles from camp. This set of Falls was probably
one of the most beautiful and unique falls I've ever seen. It wasn't
the height, or the quantity of water, but the rock formation in
which the creek cascaded upon. The rock was draped in a bright green
moss and there were severals holes in the rock creating doors and
windows that the water dripped past. There were also falls that
fell off the backside of the rock formation, that could only be
seen from walking up and behind the main waterfall. Then, by accessing
an alcove area down the creek further, you could see the multiple
levels of falls that existed before it rained off the cliff. While
we sat near the creek below the falls, with our feet cooling off
and as we listened to the tree frogs baa-ing like big-horn sheep,
we watched the falls dance as if performing a show for us with the
changes in the wind. The hiking itself was also enjoyable. The North
Kaibab trail differed from the trails on the South Rim mainly for
two reasons - it was more wooded at the top and it had large canyons
that you had to hike through towards the bottom. We got to see critters
surviving in nature - saw a raven capture and eat a frog; 2 whiptail
snakes chasing lizards, but our presence foiled the hunt; and saw
birds eating beatles and bats flying after insects. The only 'problems'
that we had during our hike were blisters (Diane - old and new;
Andy - new ones) and breathing going back up the trail. Usually
you can get into a proper breathing rythym that keeps up your energy,
but the mule "pies" where soooo stinky that you couldn't
help but hold your breath in spots (which is not a good thing to
do when working out!). Needless to say, we did make it to the top,
but a little out of breath. Afterwards we figured that we must've
been breathing in, not only the dust from the trail, but dried,
ground up mule p**p. Yuk!
We're currently in Glen Canyon Nat'l Recreation Area, aka Lake Powell.
Finally got our 'yaks in the water. Boy were they happy to get off
the car! We put in at Lone Rock and paddled towards Wahweap Marina.
In that area are two caves back inland. We took a hike to go check
them out and realized one is an arch or natural bridge. As you may
know, the SW is experiencing a drought. It is very apparent at Lake
Powell which is about 150' below normal water levels. Land bridges
exist now where water once flowed deep. Marinas are closed because
their docks no longer reach water. So boaters are limited to where
they can put in and access. Being Memorial Day weekend, we're expecting
a lot of boaters and waverunners - in a 'compact' area (since we're
located in Wahweap, one of the only open Marinas). We hope to get
our 'yaks back into the water, but we'll have to be more careful
now that the weekend is here.
We are scheduled to leave here on June 1st, and it looks like we
may be heading into Colorado after this. Hope you all enjoy the
holiday weekend!
12:35 pm pdt
Wednesday, May 19, 2004
Las Vegas to Zion National Park
After returning from our Boca/Philly trip we flew back into Las
Vegas. How weird was this? It was very odd to be flying to our car
and "home" in Vegas. Don't ask how, but Andy got into
a conversation with the taxi driver about how our car was parked
at the Tropicana Casino, we were staying at the San Remo Casino,
we were flying in from Philly, but we lived in Florida. Needless
to say she was willing to drive us all around town to learn the
details of our situation - and to increase the fare. Vegas is crazy
- all loudness and lights, crowds and chaos - but it is fun. Lost
more of our "nest egg" gambling. Saw a great magic show
at the Sahara. Eventhough we were in the second row, we couldn't
figure out HOW they did what they did. Andy wanted me to be picked
to go onstage to learn some of their secrets - thankfully that didnt
happen.
Drove to my favorite park on May 13th - Zion NP. We were here in
2001 and loved it. Wasn't disappointed with our 2nd trip...well
actually one major disappointment. Due to some large blisters on
my toes, our hiking was very limited here. Ironically enough, the
blisters were from wearing real shoes and walking around in Vegas!
So we saw and did things differently here this time. Rode our bikes
along the park road. Did some shorter hikes such as Hidden Canyon
Trail. Drove up through a different section of the park along Kolob
Terrace Road to Lava Point lookout and saw volcanic debris, a crater,
hoodoos, and cliffs that looked like the Painted Desert along the
way. We also hiked in the Narrows again. Due to hiking in cold,
wet conditions my blisters actually were pain-free for the 7 hour
hike. The water was about 55 degrees and was generally knee-high,
occassionally thigh-high, periodically hip-high, and once for Diane
too deep. Let's just say, we were at the end of the trip (200 yds
away from end), I was tired, cold, not paying attention, and I out-walked
my stick. This means my foot went past my stick (which is your support
and water-level gauge) and of course I went into a deep pool. Yep,
the drop-offs are quick in the Narrows. My feet were no longer touching
bottom, I was now floating downstream, and once that cold water
surrounded my chest my breath was sucked out of me. Where was Andy
are you asking? Where he usually is...way ahead of me, now turned
towards me (he heard me cry out), yelling "What ARE you doing
down there?" (remember, at this point he can only see my head!)
Too much excitement for me at the end of a long hike!
We'll be moving on to the Grand Canyon - North Rim on the 20th.
We are hoping to get another permit to hike down in - so cross your
fingers for us! We may not be so lucky this time since the campground
is full and we have to camp outside the park - not a good sign.
After that, Page, AZ and Lake Powell. We're looking to kayak some
of the fingers and canyons, so if anyone has any helpful information
on doing that please let us know.
10:56 am pdt
Monday, May 10, 2004
Grand Canyon
After leaving Sedona we went to the Grand Canyon - South Rim. We
had been hoping to get a permit to backpack camp in the canyon so
we started preparing days in advance. By "preparing",
I mean shopping - new backpacks, new hydration packs, new clothes,
new walking poles, new sleeping pads, pretty much we had to buy
new everything! Yes, we became the people we make fun of! We took
a trip without testing out a lot of this new equipment. Ha! Fortunately
we did get the permit and all of our new gear worked out perfectly.
Our hike into the grandest of canyons was a loop trail. We hiked
down the South Kaibab trail, spent one night on the bottom at Bright
Angel Campground, hiked half-way back up the 2nd day via Bright
Angel Trail to Indian Gardens Campground, and then the final day
we hiked back to the South Rim.
The hike down the South Kaibab was steep and we were experiencing
winds of 25-30 with gusts of 40mph. We were very thankful for the
walking poles since they kept our wind-blown and knee-aching bodies
from being blown off the trail. Of course there was a learning curve
- Andy was so intent on where to place his poles that he kept forgetting
to think of where he was placing his feet. The campgrounds were
beautiful with trees and creeks and canyon walls to admire. The
vistas along the trail were breathtaking and we were surprised by
several waterfalls. The Bright Angel trail wasn't as challenging
physically, but the number of day-trippers added a new hazard since
many don't know the hiker's etiquette (uphill hikers have the right-of-way).
It's too hard to appreciate the Grand Canyon (in my opinion) without
hiking into it - even if only a few miles or few hours. Only when
you are "in" it do I think you can see the variety of
colors in the rock and many of the small beauties of the canyon.
So, if you go, do take a hike - short or long - for a different
perspective of this grand canyon. But don't be a "touron"
(tourist-moron) - be prepared with food, water, etc and not have
all your gear be brand new :)
Outside of trip down into the canyon we were fortunate to also go
for a bike ride along the rim, enjoy the Rim Trail, and visit some
shops, etc. We also got to see several of the California Condors.
The big news was that they now have their first baby born in the
wild since 1970's. The baby is 8 wks old with a three foot wingspan.
It is still truly wild since they haven't even been able to tag
it yet.
We had so much fun, we're going to try hiking down from the North
Rim. Cross your fingers we'll be able to get another permit. After
landing in Vegas, we'll probably head to Zion, the North Rim, then
on thru southern Utah/northern AZ.
Happy Mother's Day to all of our family and friends with children!
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